Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and visitors equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, Unesco recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious list of global cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it joins a global network of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "stands as proof of its profound gastronomic legacy and lively food ecosystem," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this historic city is little surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the limelight for what has always shaped its essence: an profound passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a constant discussion from morning until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and taken to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights fresh harvests but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on every corner, there are little shops and kiosks – hidden gems that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a no-frills joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and complicated. The vendor whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though note that their children are unwilling to learn the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will encourage more people worldwide to discover these tales and travel to the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
